Course Designer

The Golden Bear Challenge Golf Game & Course Designer allows you to sculpt a raw plot of virgin terrain into any kind of golf challenge you can imagine. Course routing, bunker and pin placement, slope severity, hills, water, trees and other objects - virtually every aspect of golf course design is at your fingertips.

The Course Designer allows you to create a course from scratch from nothing but a flat plot of land. Once you create the basic outline of a hole, you can add shapes, objects, elevations and depressions. Fifteen different shapes are available, including rough, bunkers and cart paths. Additionally, you can edit the texture of each shape. For instance, Desert Rough includes nine textures, such as River Bed, Hard Pan, Moss and Pine Floor.

You can open the Course Designer from the Golden Bear Challenge menu screen, or directly from the Windows 95/98 desktop.

Place the Golden Bear Challenge CD-ROM in your CD-ROM drive. From the opening menu screen, click Design to load the Golf Course Designer.

or

If the CD is already in your drive, click on Start on the Windows 95 desktop. Select Programs, then select Golden Bear Challenge, and click Course Designer from the pop-up menu.

Click on File on the main menu, then click Exit.

or

Press and hold Alt while pressing X.

or

Click the small X in the upper right corner of the window.

The first step in designing a new course from scratch is to place 18 holes in the Course window. Although you can design and edit your holes one at a time, it is a good idea to "rough out" your entire course first in the Course window, then edit the individual holes. This makes it easier to align cart paths and various terrains when you add the finishing touches to your course.

Zoom In

The Golden Bear Challenge Course Designer allows you to design a course from the inside out, rather from the outside in. Unlike an actual designer who works within the confines of a natural landscape, you begin with a flat piece of land in the Course window and add terrain features to each hole in the Edit Hole window. You need not worry about routing the holes in any particular direction; however, in the interest of authenticity, you may want to use the following traditional conventions in arranging the holes.

• Place the 18th green close to the 1st tee.
• Create areas that can be shared by several holes, where you can add forests, deserts, rivers, lakes, etc.
• Change direction often, so the course will produce varying wind effects.
• Vary the directions of doglegs, so as to challenge golfers to hit in both directions.
• Be careful not to use up too much yardage on the first nine holes.

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then click New Hole.
2. Click once to place the hole and open the yardage information box.
3. Drag the cursor straight down (south) until 220 yards appears in the Tee box (depending on the sensitivity of your mouse, your yardage may vary). Click once to set the Tee shot.
4. Drag the cursor southeast until 150 yards appears in the 2nd Shot box. Click once to set the 2nd Shot.
5. Finally, drag the cursor south again, until 85 yards appears in the Approach box. Click once to finish a Par 5 hole.

After adding a hole to the Course window, double-click on the hole to open the editing window. You can customize the Edit Hole window to make it easier to edit small shapes and objects.

Zoom In

To Customize The Edit Hole Window:

1. Click the Zoom button on the button bar below the main menu.
2. Click once in the Edit Hole window to magnify the hole.
3. Press Esc on the keyboard to remove the Zoom cursor, or click the Zoom button to toggle it off.
4. Click and hold the bottom edge of the Edit Hole window, and drag it down until the entire hole is in view.
5. Move your mouse cursor to the yellow View Arrow (it will turn blue when selected).
6. Click and hold the button, and drag the View Arrow to the lower left corner of the Edit Hole window. Release the button to deposit the View Arrow. This will make it easier to move the tee placements after re-designing the hole.

When you added the Par 5 to the Course window, it included only four tees, rough, fairway and green. Although you designed the general shape and yardage, the Edit Hole window allows you to change every aspect of the hole, and add new shapes and objects. Let's begin by altering the shape of the fairway.

Zoom In

1. The existing fairway includes eight boundary points. Click and hold the second point from the left on the north side of the fairway. Drag the point down toward the bend in the dogleg. Narrowing the fairway at the dogleg makes the tee shot considerably more difficult.
2. Click and hold the destination point of the tee shot, which is now located just outside of the fairway. Drag the point to the middle of the fairway. Note the slight changes in the yardage totals at the bottom of the Edit Hole window.
3. When you narrowed the fairway, you also shortened its boundaries around the green. Click on the line connecting the two boundary points that appear above and below the green (the line will turn yellow when it is selected).
4. Hold the button down and drag the line to the right until the fairway surrounds the green.
5. Release the button to set the new boundary.

If you want to add additional boundary points to a finished shape, right-click on a boundary segment, and then click on Split Segment. This can be repeated for additional points.

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then select New Shape. Click Fairway.
2. Begin in front of the red tee, and draw a new fairway shape by setting multiple boundary points.
3. Click once to draw the fairway. Click, hold and drag any of the boundary points to fine-tune the shape.

Tip: To quickly re-size any shape, without altering the layout of the boundary points, double-click on a shape and click in the Stretch A Shape box. Input a positive or negative adjustment (feet). You can enlarge or shrink the shape, and still maintain the original contour and boundary points.

You can change the shape of the green by clicking, holding and dragging any of the boundary points; or, you can cut the green from the hole and start over with a new shape. Let's replace the existing green with a pre-drawn shape from the Greens Palette.

1. Click on the green, right-click, and click Cut.
2. Click View on the main menu, then click Greens Palette.
3. Click on the third shape from the left, on the second row of buttons.
4. Move the cursor to the area where the old green was located. Click once to draw the green.
5. Click and hold the green and drag it to the lower corner of the fairway.
6. Release the button to set the green in its new location.

Understanding Shape Hierarchy

When designing a course, you can place certain shapes on top of other shapes (e.g., light rough on heavy rough, bunker on fairway), however, with seventeen different shapes, there are certain limitations. The following hierarchy represents "layers" of shapes, listed from bottom (Heavy Rough) to top (Terrain Shape). For example, Water can be placed over Hazard, Light Rough, Desert Rough, Sandy Rough and Heavy Rough. However, Water cannot be placed over a Fairway.

Tip: You can circumvent the shape hierarchy by splitting an existing shape, and leaving a ribbon of rough in the middle. By carefully placing a shape over the rough, you can create the illusion of one shape laying on top of another.

Note: A new Elevation Shape appears on the course as purple Terrain. You can edit the shape freely as long as it remains as Terrain. However, once you change the shape type, it will be subject to the limitations of the hierarchy below. For example, if you create a new Elevation Shape to be used as a hill on a fairway, it will no longer be available for editing after the shape is changed to Fairway. The shape will retain its elevation properties, however, it will blend into the existing fairway.

You can add shapes to a newly created hole in the Edit Hole window. The default surface of the hole is dark green rough. As you place Shapes on the hole, the rough gradually disappears beneath bunkers, fringe, fairways, etc.

To Create a New Shape

1. To create a New Shape, click Edit on the main menu, then click New Shape; or right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window and select New Shape.
2. Drag the pointer and click on the desired shape.
3. Move the pencil icon to the desired location and click once to set the first boundary point of the new shape (the point will be placed at the tip of the pencil).
4. Drag the line from the first point and click to set the next point at the desired location.
5. Continue this process to draw the shape.
6. Right-click on the shape and click on Finish Shape to complete your design; or simply press Enter on the keyboard.

Tips: It is not necessary to connect the last line to the first boundary point. Let's say you want to create a large sand trap, with a narrow channel of sand extending from the main bunker. Simply place one boundary point away from the main shape. Even though a single line is drawn on the screen, it will be converted to a "finger" when you click Finish Shape.

Although a shape must contain at least three boundary points, the total number of points is limited only by the size of the shape. Since each boundary point represents a change in direction, a large, wavy bunker requires many more points than a single oval green. It is easier to make subtle alterations to a shape with many closely spaced boundary points, since each point can be clicked, held and dragged to a new location.

You can add a New Shape at any time, subject to the limitations of the Shape Hierarchy. The following instructions show you how to add four new shapes to a hole.

To Add Water

1. Click Zoom on the button bar to magnify the hole.
2. Click Edit on the main menu, then select New Shape.
3. Select Water to activate the drawing icon.
4. Since you cannot draw water over fairway, draw a river in the rough, along the North side of the fairway, near the green.
5. Right-click on the shape and click Finish Shape, or simply press Enter on the keyboard.

Tip: If you want to split a fairway with water, simply draw two fairway shapes, separated by a ribbon of rough. Then draw the water shape on the rough.

To Add Dirt

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then select New Shape.
2. Click on Dirt to activate the drawing icon.
3. Draw a shape, north of the fairway, between the tee and water hazard.
4. Right-click on the shape and click Finish Shape, or simply press Enter on the keyboard.

To Add Sandy Rough

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then select New Shape.
2. Click on Sandy Rough to activate the drawing icon.
3. Draw a shape that begins on the southeast side of the fairway and wraps around
4. the green to the top of the Edit Hole window.
5. Right-click on the shape and click Finish Shape, or simply press Enter on the keyboard.

To Add Bunkers

Let's protect the new green with a horseshoe of sand traps.

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then select New Shape. Click on Bunker.
2. Draw a large bunker in front of the green. Click to set the shape in place.
3. Click View on the main menu, then click Bunkers Palette.
4. Click on the last button in the first row, and place the bunker above the green.
5. Finally, click on the fourth shape from the left, in the second row. Place the bunker to the right and slightly below the second one.

Although you can draw Greens and Bunkers using the New Shape option, you can also select pre-drawn shapes from the Greens, and Bunkers Palettes. These shapes were created by the staff at Nicklaus Design.

Click View on the main menu, then click Greens or Bunkers.

Note: After placing a pre-drawn Bunker or Green in the Edit Hole window, you can alter its shape by clicking, holding and dragging any of the distance points. The selected distance point will turn yellow as you move the mouse pointer around the shape. /P>

How to Create and Add Trees, Bushes, Rocks and Other Objects

Creating Objects

While in the Edit Hole window, you can view and select Trees, Bushes, Rocks and Other Objects from a collection of Palettes. After selecting an item, it can be placed anywhere on the hole.

1. Click View on the main menu, then select one of the Palettes.
2. When the palette appears, click on the top bar of the window.
3. Move your mouse pointer across any item in the palette to reveal its name and dimensions.
4. Click on an item in the palette, or to place multiple copies of the object, hold down Shift and click.
5. Move the icon to the desired location in the Edit Hole window (the cursor becomes a cross hair).
6. Click once to deposit the item at the point of the cross hair.
7. Click the X in the upper right corner of the palette to close the window.

Note: If a portion of the palette is hidden, the window can be resized by clicking, holding and dragging a corner until all selections are visible.

Tip: If small objects do not appear on the screen after they are placed, use Zoom In to magnify the hole until the objects become visible. Right-click in the Edit Hole window, then click on Zoom In; or click on the Zoom In button on the tool bar. Each time you click on the hole, the view is magnified.

How To Add Trees

Click View on the main menu, then click Trees Palette. Click once on the bar at the top of the Trees window, to activate the button descriptions. Slide the pointer to the Coconut Palm button in the lower right corner of the window, and click once.

Zoom In

4. Move the tree icon to the first boundary point on the left, on the north side of the fairway. Click once to place a palm tree at the point of the cross hair.
5. Since the default size of the Coconut Palm is 49' x 20', double-click on your newly planted tree, and change the height to 20 feet.
6. After creating and placing the first tree, use the Copy and Paste commands to speed up the process. Continue placing the trees along the fairway, until you reach the point where the fairway narrows.
7. If desired, place another row of trees behind the first row to add depth.

Tip: The Zoom In command makes it easier to place and edit trees.

How To Add Bushes

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Bushes Palette.
2. Click once on the bar at the top of the Bushes window, to activate the button descriptions.
3. Slide the pointer to the Turpentine Shrub located at the far right in the second row, and click once.
4. Move the icon to the right side of the fairway at the dogleg, opposite the palm trees you placed earlier. Click to place the shrub.
5. Repeat the process until the edge of the fairway at the dogleg, is thick with shrubbery.

Tip: To place objects in "forest mode," hold down Shift on the keyboard, while selecting the object. The cursor remains on the selected object until you press Esc or select another object, allowing you to quickly click a series of bushes. This is especially useful when used with variable object sizing option.

Now, add some ground cover around the palm trees, to further hamper a recovery shot.

1. Click on the second button from the left on the top row of the Bushes Palette.
2. Move the icon to the area beneath, and in front of the palm trees.
3. Click to place the ground cover.
4. Repeat the process until the palm trees are surrounded by ground cover, beginning 50 yards from the dogleg, and stretching around the turn.

Tip: To gauge the distance from the tee (Black, Blue, White or Red), or green; move the mouse pointer and watch the yardage counters on the bottom bar of the Edit Hole window.

How To Add Rocks and Boulders

1. Click Zoom on the button bar to magnify the hole.
2. Click View on the main menu, then click Rocks Palette.
3. Click once on the bar at the top of the Rocks window, to activate the button descriptions. Click once on the large boulder button on the far right side of the button bar.
4. Drop several boulders in the Sandy Rough below, and to the right of the green.
5. Return to the Rocks Palette and click on the second button from the right, Rocks and Cacti.
6. Click on the left side of the rough in front of the water hazard to place the rocks.
7. Repeat this process to build a wall of rocks in front of the water hazard, stretching from the rough to the fairway.

How To Add Other Objects

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Other Objects Palette.
2. Click once on the bar at the top of the Other Objects window, to activate the button descriptions.
3. Click on the second button from the left to activate the drawing icon.
4. Place the ball washer above, and slightly behind the black tee.
5. Return to the Other Objects window and click on the bench.
6. Place the Bench near the Ball Washer, behind the Black tee.

Note: Since the ball washer is very small, it will not be visible in the default Edit Hole window. If you want to view the object on the hole, click Zoom on the button bar to magnify the Edit Hole window.

Changing A Shape Type

You can change a Shape type, without altering its boundaries.

1. Double-click on a Shape and select a new type from the pop-up box; or right-click on a selected Shape, and click Edit Shape Options.
2. Click on a new Shape.
3. Click OK to accept the change, or click Cancel to revert to the original Shape.

Tip: You can also click once on a shape to select it, then press Enter on the keyboard. This is especially useful if you change to a shape type that becomes "buried" in the hierarchy. Simply press Enter again to restore the shape to view.

Adding Custom Objects

The ability to add your own custom artwork to Golden Bear Challenge courses was created for experienced computer users/course designers who are already familiar with concepts such as palette creation/control, graphic file formats, ASCII and .INI files, etc. The Course Designer comes complete with a wide variety of built-in objects, textures, skies, horizons and sounds. Less experienced users should create courses using the provided items.

Even if you are a graphics savvy pro course designer, you would always want to choose a "stock" item over a custom one, unless you absolutely require custom data to achieve your results. Needlessly adding custom objects will require the users of your course to use more memory, have extra files on their hard drive, and be more prone to error.

When you create a new hole in the Course window, the hole is flat. However, the elevation of any existing shape may be altered, and you can create new elevation shapes for placement anywhere on the hole. When using the Slope commands (Left, Right, Forward, Back); the right, or East side of the Edit Hole window is considered forward. Hence, Slope Forward tilts your shape to the right; while Slope Left, tilts the shape up, or to the North.

Tip: When editing or creating multiple elevation shapes, it is easy to lose track of each change in elevation. Activate Terrain and Outlines to view the location and characteristics of each shape. Use Rendered View, so you can see your changes as they will appear on the course.

Tip: Having a rendered view of your hole open with Auto Render turned on is the easiest way to alter elevations. Position your windows on screen so any changes you make to the hole overhead window are immediately seen in rendered view.

Add Slope To A Green

Click on the green. To tilt the green to the left, click Terrain on the main menu, then click Slope Left; or, click on the button bar under the main menu (Note: Remember the orientation of the Edit Hole window when selecting Slope effects. The right, or East side of the Edit Hole window is always considered forward. Hence, Slope Left slopes the green toward the top, or north side of the Edit Hole window).

Add Depth To A Bunker

1. Click on the large bunker in front of the green.
2. Click Terrain on the main menu, and click Bulge Down; or simply click on the button bar.
3. Repeat step 3 to increase the depression in the bunker.

Add Elevation To A Tee

1. Click in the green area of the Black Tee (not on the black dot).
2. To elevate the tee, click Terrain on the main menu bar, and click Raise; or, simply click on the button bar.

Sloping Fringe

1. Click the Zoom In button three times to enlarge the view of the green.
2. Click Terrain on the main menu, and click New Elevation Shape.
3. Draw a thin shape along the edge of the green, in front of the large bunker.
4. To place the shape, right-click, and click Finish Shape; or simply press Enter on the keyboard.
5. Click Slope Forward on the button bar to tip the shape toward the bunker (Remember, the right, or East side of the Edit Hole window is the forward reference point for choosing elevation effects).
6. To change the shape from Terrain to Fringe, double-click on the shape, and select Fringe as the new shape type.

Fairway Hills

1. Beginning in the second fairway, just past the dogleg, draw three oval Elevation Shapes, each one 25 yards apart.
2. To create a hill, click each shape, and click Bulge Up on the button bar.
3. Repeat the previous step to increase the elevation for each shape.
4. To smooth irregularities in the elevations, click on each shape, and click Smooth on the button bar.
5. To change the shape type from Terrain to Fairway, double-click on each shape, and select Fairway.
6. To view your newly created fairway hills in Rendered View, tap the Space Bar on the keyboard.

Edit Object Options

1. Double-click on any Tree, Bush, Rock or Other Object.
2. To change the height of the object, input a new number in the Height box.
3. Click OK to complete the change and re-draw the object; or, click Defaults to return to the original size.

Note: The Edit Object option is a powerful feature that changes a rock into a massive boulder, or transforms a spindly tree into a giant Redwood. Items like benches, ball washers and rakes appear very small, however, their default sizes are in perspective with other shapes and objects on the course. Use the Rendered View to make sure your objects look believable.

Creating Elevation Shapes

You can create a wide range of elevations, by first creating a Terrain shape, and then altering the shape with elevation effects.

1. Click Terrain on the main menu, then click New Elevation Shape; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, select Terrain, then New Elevation Shape.
2. Draw the elevation in the same way you draw a regular Shape (see Creating A New Shape).
3. When the elevation is finished, right-click on the shape and click Finish Shape; or, press Enter on the keyboard.
4. Apply additional elevation effects to the shape if desired.
5. Change the Shape Type if desired.

Changing The Shape Type Of An Elevation

When a new elevation shape is placed on the course, it has the default value of terrain, and it appears as a purple shape. Double-click on the shape to open the Change Shape Type window. Click on the desired shape, then click OK to close the window, or Cancel to revert to the previous shape.

Altering The Elevation of a Shape

You can alter the elevation of any shape by using the Terrain editing options.

Note: The right (east) side of the Edit Hole window is always considered forward, regardless of the hole's orientation.

To Alter Shape Elevation

1. Select a shape in the Edit Hole window.
2. Click Terrain on the main menu, or right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, then click Terrain.
3. Select one of the terrain options, or click on one of the Edit Terrain buttons located on the button bar beneath the main menu.

Elevation Effects

Smooth - Levels the irregular high and low spots within the shape. For example, if you create a bulge in a shape, the land will rise up into a gently rounded hill. Click Smooth, to level the top of the hill, while maintaining the additional height provided by the bulge. If Smooth is applied to a shape that has bulged down, it will level the bottom of the depression, while maintaining its depth.

Bulge Up - Create a rounded hill. This action can be repeated to increase the elevation.

Bulge Down - Create a rounded depression. This action can be repeated to increase the depth of the depression.

Flatten To Lowest - Flatten an elevation or depression to its lowest level. If this command is applied to a bulge, it will restore the elevation to the level before the bulge was created. If it is applied to a gently sloping depression, it will transform the shape from a gently sloping depression, to a depression with vertical walls.

Flatten To Middle - Flatten an elevation or depression to its midpoint.

Flatten To Highest - Flatten an elevation or depression to its highest level. If this command is applied to a bulge, it will create a flat-topped hill. If it is applied to a shape created with Bulge Down, it will restore the elevation to the level before the depression was created.

Raise - Increase the elevation consistently across an entire shape. Used repeatedly, this action will create a mesa (flat-topped elevation) with sheer cliffs. Note: Raise adjusts the elevation in much greater increments than Bulge Up.

Lower - Decrease the elevation consistently across an entire shape. Used repeatedly, this action will create a flat-bottomed crater with sheer walls. Note: This command decreases the elevation in much greater increments than Bulge Down.

Slope Left - Tilt the shape, causing a slope toward the top (north) side of the Edit Hole window.

Slope Right Đ Tilt the shape, causing a slope toward the bottom (south) side of the Edit Hole window.

Slope Forward - Tilt the shape, causing a slope toward the forward (east) side of the Edit Hole window.

Slope Back - Tilt the shape, causing a slope toward the back (west) side of the Edit Hole window.

Flattening A Hole - You can flatten an entire hole, removing all elevations and depressions.

While in the Edit Hole window, click Terrain, then click Flatten Hole, to remove all elevation from the hole; or, right-click in the Edit Hole window, slide the cursor down to Terrain, and click Flatten Hole.

Manipulating Holes, Shapes And Objects

Copying A Hole, Object Or Shape

1. Click on a Hole, Object or Shape.
2. Click Edit on the Menu Bar. Click Copy to send the item to the clipboard; or, right-click, and click on Copy in the pop-up menu (Keyboard: Press and hold Ctrl while pressing C).

Cutting A Hole, Object or Shape to the Clipboard

1. Click on a Hole, Object or Shape.
2. Click Edit on the Menu Bar. Click Cut to remove the item and place it on the clipboard; or, right-click on the item, then select Cut from the pop-up menu (Keyboard: Press and hold Ctrl while pressing X).

Deleting A Hole, Object Or Shape

1. Click on a Hole, Object or Shape.
2. Click Edit on the Menu Bar. Click Delete to permanently remove the item from the course; or, right-click, and click on Delete in the pop-up menu (Keyboard: Press Delete).

Pasting A Hole, Object or Shape

1. Click Edit on the Menu Bar.
2. Click Paste to restore an item from the clipboard to the Course window or Edit Hole window.

Note: The restored item will appear in the upper left corner of the window, rather than in its original position. You will need to select and drag the item to the desired location.

Selecting A Shape

Click on a Shape in the Edit Hole window. A selected shape is surrounded by small circles.

Selecting An Object

Click on an Object in the Edit Hole window. A selected object is surrounded by a black and white dotted rectangle.

Undo The Previous Action

Click Edit, then click Undo, to reverse the last command; or, right-click on a hole, then click Undo. (Keyboard: Press Ctrl + Z to Undo the previous action).

When you created the tutorial hole in the Course window, the Course Designer automatically drew four tee locations: Black, Blue, White and Red. Some of the tees moved during the editing process. Let's reshape and relocate the tees.

Edit The Tee Areas

1. Click in the green area of the Black tee.
2. Slide the pointer over the connecting line between the top two boundary points; it will turn yellow when selected.
3. Click, hold and drag the line upward to enlarge the tee area.
4. Repeat with the bottom connecting line.
5. Repeat this process with the other three tees.

Relocate The Tees

1. Click and hold down the button in the green area of a tee.
2. Drag the tee to a new location.
3. Click, hold and drag the tee shot (colored dot) to the center of the tee.
4. Repeat this process for the other three tees.

Draw A New Tee Shape

1. Click Edit on the main menu, then slide the pointer down to New Shape.
2. Click Tee, to activate the drawing icon.
3. Draw the new Tee, then right-click and select Finish Shape to place the Tee on the hole.
4. Click in the center of the Tee, hold the button down, and position the Tee under the appropriate colored dot.

You can change the way Course Designer varies the sizes of Objects.

1. Click Options on the main menu, then click Preferences.
2. Select an object type from the list, and click next to Random Height, to produce objects of varying heights.
3. Click on the arrow buttons to set a percentage in the Variability % box.
4. Click Defaults to restore the following settings:

• Trees: Random Height, 10% Variability
• Bushes & Rocks: Random Height, 20% Variability
• Other Objects: Standard Size (ball washers, benches, etc.)

Note: When Random Height is not selected, Trees, Bushes and Rocks are drawn to the specifications displayed in each palette.

Changing Course Information

While in a Course or Edit Hole window, you can edit general information that is stored with your course.

To change course information:

1. Click Edit, then click Course Info; or, right-click in the course window, and click on Course Info.
2. Type directly in the Course Name and Description text boxes to change the information. This information appears in the Course Selection dialog box in Jack Nicklaus 6.
3. Click on the Pick Sky button to change the appearance of the sky. Choose Blue, Hazy or Cloudy.
4. Click on the Reset Sky button to restore the previous setting.
5. Click OK to return to the course window. The new information is saved when you save the course file.

Opening An Existing Course

Click File on the main menu, then click Open Course, to select a Golden Bear Challenge golf course file (*.jnc).

Closing A Golf Course

1. Click File on the main menu, then click Close Course, to close an active course.
2. Click Yes, to save your changes; No, to close the course without saving; or Cancel, to return to the Course window.

Saving A Golf Course

Click File on the main menu, then click Save, to save the course under its current name; or, right-click anywhere in a Course or Edit Hole window, then click Save. For quick-saving, click the save button on the Course Designer button bar located beneath the main menu.

Saving A Golf Course Under A Different Name

Click File on the main menu, then click Save As, to store the course file under a different name.

Saving A Course Snapshot

You can save a snapshot of your course as a graphical bitmap (*.bmp) file. This file may be edited with a graphics program, or printed, without altering the actual course file (*.jnc).

Click File on the main menu, then click Save Course Snapshot, to save a bitmap (*.bmp) graphical snapshot of your course.

Playing Your Course

In order to play your golf course design in Golden Bear Challenge, you will need to save it to a single file in a ".course" format. Once you are ready to try out your course in the game, choose "Save as playable" from the file menu. You will be prompted to save your Designer (construction format) course before creating the .course format. Save your .course format into the courses directory in your Data folder. You can name it anything you like; it does not have to keep the same name as your construction format course. This process will consolidate all your course files into one easy-to-upload file.

Tip on Altering Elevations

Having a rendered view of your hole open with Auto Render turned on is the easiest way to alter elevations. Position your windows on screen so any changes you make to the hole overhead window are immediately seen in rendered view.

Tips on Auto Render

There are times when it is to your advantage to turn Auto Render on, and there are times when it is best turned off. For example, when you are altering elevation data, it helps to have a rendered window visible with Auto Render on. If you are doing a large edit on a terrain shape, it may make sense to turn Auto Render off, then manually render when you have finished your work. Experiment with this setting to find what you are most comfortable with.

Copying Holes From One Course to Another

You must use the import feature to copy holes from one course to another. Directly copying hole files from one folder to another will not be successful.

Adding Custom Data to Golf Courses

These features are created for experienced computer users/course designers who are already familiar with concepts such as palette creation/control, graphic file formats, anti-aliasing, bitmap scaling, mip-mapping, tiling bitmaps, ASCII and .INI files, etc. The Course Designer comes complete with a wide variety of built-in objects, textures, skies, horizons, and sounds, and less experienced users should create courses using the provided items.

Even if you are a graphics savvy pro course designer, you would always want to choose a "stock" item over a custom one, unless you absolutely require custom data to achieve your results. Needlessly adding custom objects will require the users of your course to have more memory and extra files on their hard drive, and the game may be more prone to error.

There are many Internet based sources for finding detailed information about how to use custom artwork.

Graphics Formats: All graphics used as custom data must be 8 bit PCX files. These files can be created with many fine programs including but not limited to Adobe Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro, Lview32, etc. There are four variations in the way colors/palettes are handled you will need to know about.

Note: Translucency is the most complex palette type, and requires professional image editing tools. Less advanced artists should simply provide transparent images as described above.

The course designer will allow you to add 100 objects (each with up to 4 MIPs), 15 Textures, 6 Skies (each requires 3 resolutions), 6 Horizons (each requires 7 panes in 3 resolutions), and 6 sounds to each course. These files are identified in a .INI file that is placed alongside the course's .JNC file, and must have the same name. If our course is in a folder named "TEST," then it has a JNC file name "TEST.JNC." There must be a "TEST.INI" file present to specify this course's custom data. All of the graphics and/or sounds you supply must also be in the course folder also.

Adding Custom Objects

To add a custom object, create a "TRANSPARENT" (see page 61) variety .PCX file, and name it ending in "1.PCX" (e.g., MAPLETREE1.PCX). The size is up to you, stock objects range from as small as 50x40 all the way up to 1000x800. The "1" means it is the first (and largest) MIP of the object. Next, create a "HALFTONE" 32x32 thumbnail representation, and name it ending in "T.PCX" (e.g. MAPLETREET.PCX). This thumbnail is used in the Designer's "Custom Data" palette, and is required.

Next, specify your new object in your .INI file's [OBJECTS] section. Since an .INI file is a plain ASCII file, you can use things as simple as Windows Notepad to edit it. If you are creating a new file or editing one that does not already have a [OBJECTS] section, just type in: [OBJECTS]

You must spell this exactly, and it must be in all uppercase. Inside the [OBJECTS] section, specify your new graphic like this: NAME1.PCX=Height in Meters, Width in Meters, Type [ Split ]

MAPLETREE1.PCX=15.5,10.2,1,100

That is all that is required to use your new object, but don't expect it to look really nice off in a distance. For a better appearance over distances, you'll want to provide MIPs (smaller resolutions of the same graphic). You may provide three more images, each a 50% reduction from the first, and name them ending with "2, 3, and 4". So, the images would be something like this:

Add these in sequence, don't try to skip one. You do not alter your .INI file as you add MIPs, the program will automatically "look and see" if you have MIPs. So for each object you add, there will be only one entry, and it will always end in "1.PCX".

That's all there is to setting up custom objects. Remember that the Designer needs to have all this done and ready to read when you open your course. If you create or change your .INI file with the course open, you will have to reload the course. Feel free to edit the graphic images themselves at any time during your course creation, but be VERY careful in setting your object TYPE and SPLIT. Once you have placed an object on your course, you cannot modify it. You must delete it and place it again.

Professional course designers usually create their graphics by scanning photographs of a course and then subtracting the background from the images.

Adding Custom Textures

A texture is a representation of a terrain type. In Jack Nicklaus 6, there are the following types:

To add a Custom Texture you create an "OPAQUE" (see page 61) .PCX file, that is exactly 256 x 256. The graphic needs to "tile" well. Specify it in a [TEXTURES] section like this:
NAME.PCX=Type

[TEXTURES]
DARKFAIRWAY.PCX=6

The above example will place "DARKFAIRWAY.PCX" in Terrain Type 6 (Fairway) in your Edit Textures Dialog box. Because of the complex reflections used in Jack Nicklaus 6, you cannot provide a bitmap for water. To change the water color, just enter your own RGB base color in the Edit Textures Dialog.

Adding Custom Skies

For each "Sky" you must provide 3 "OPAQUE" .PCX files, each representing the same image in a different resolution. Changing the size or not providing all three images can cause your Game or Designer to crash. The names must end in "1.PCX, 2.PCX, 3.PCX", and the resolutions are:

Again, you will specify only the first image in your .INI file. Unlike the objects that had MIPs, skies have resolutions, and they become larger as the number grows.

[SKIES]
GreenSky1.PCX=Comment

The Designer will place this sky in your Skies & Horizons dialog. Future versions may use the "Comment," so it is best to put a meaningful display name there that is currently unused.

Adding Custom Horizons

For each "Horizon" you must provide 21 "TRANSPARENT" (see page 61) .PCX files. The 21 files should be thought of as 7 .PCX files for each of the three (640, 800, 1024) resolutions. All files must be present, and within each resolution, all files must have exactly the same height. Varying the height within a resolution set, or failing to provide images, can cause your Game or Designer to crash. The height is usually a number between 100 and 200 pixels, and must be smaller than the height of the sky (140, 175, 224).

For 640:
7 .PCX files each 640 pixels wide, all the same height, and less than 250

For 800:
7 .PCX files each 800 pixels wide, all the same height, and less than 313

For 1024
7 .PCX files each 1024 pixels wide, all the same height, and less than 400

The three sets of 7 files are numbered using the last two digits. The first digit is the number within the set (1-7) and the second digit is the resolution (1-3). Specify only the "*11.PCX" entry in your .INI file as follows:

[HORIZONS]
STORMYHRZ11.PCX=Comment

You would have 21 files, named like

Store all of the files in your course directory.

Adding Custom Sounds

Create a standard Windows .WAV file for your sound. Since sounds can be very big, you should have created your sound sampled at the lowest setting that gives you the quality you need. We recommend 8 bit 22 Khz Mono. Specify your sound in the [SOUNDS] section like this: NAME.WAV=Type

Type 1 denotes a continuous sound; Type 2 is a sound that plays once and stops.

[SOUNDS]
brook.wav=1

Your sound will show up in your Sounds Palette in the designer.

Adding Course Info Bitmaps

You can place a Designer Information bitmap by creating a 251 x 140 "OPAQUE" .PCX file, naming it "CRSINFO.PCX" and placing it in your course directory. When the course is saved, it will be incorporated into your course file if present. This image shows up in your Game Setup screens only.

Adding Designer Info Bitmaps

You can place a Designer Information bitmap by creating a 251 x 140 "OPAQUE" .PCX file, naming it "DESINFO.PCX" and placing it in your course directory. When the course is saved, it will be incorporated into your course file if present. This image shows up in your Game Setup screens only.

Adding Course Overviews

Begin by saving a course Snapshot bitmap from the Designers Course View. You may enhance this image, but you must not change the locations of the holes, as the user will be using them to select a hole. Convert this graphic into a 638 x 440 "TRANSPARENT/TRANSLUCENT" .PCX file and name it "COURSE.PCX."

It will be incorporated into your course on your next save.

Adding Hole Overheads

Begin by saving a hole Snapshot bitmap from the Designers Hole View. You may enhance this image, but you must not change the locations of the basic hole features. Convert this graphic into a 142 x 426 "TRANSPARENT/TRANSLUCENT" (see page 61) .PCX file and name it "HOLENN.PCX" where NN = (01, 02, 03, 18). This will be incorporated in your course the next time you save this hole. To force ALL holes to be updated, change to the Designer's Course View and save.

Adding Custom Scorecards

Create a "OPAQUE" (see page 61) 556 x 383 image that follows the format of existing scorecards, and name it "SCORECRD.PCX."

You can convert a Jack Nicklaus 5 course into a Golden Bear Challenge course. The Golden Bear Challenge Designer will automatically read Jack Nicklaus 5 format courses. Simply open the course from the Designer and choose Save as... from the File menu. Do not save with the same name as your Jack 5 course if you plan on going back to Jack 5 with this course. You are now free to make changes as you wish. When you are ready to create a version on the golf course that is playable with Goldern Bear Challenge, choose Save as playable from the File menu. Save this course to the Courses directory in your Data folder.

If you want to simply convert a Jack Nicklaus 5 golf course without changing the course at all, a Converter application has been provided that is dedicated to this task. Launch Converter from the programs option in your Start menu. Open your course by choosing Open from the file menu. Find your course folder and double-click on it. If there is a file inside entitled NAME OF GAME.jac., click on the jnc course to open it. Then choose Save as GBC Playable from the File menu to convert to the format playable with Golden Bear Challenge. If you have several courses to convert, you can do this quickly by opening all of them before proceeding to the Save as GBC playable process.

When Converting a course look for Missing Objects. If any objects are found to be missing, the designer will insert a very visible gold tree as a placeholder for you. Therefore after converting your course, we strongly suggest re-examining your objects, as the object tables are not identical.

Using The Course Wizard

The Course Wizard allows you to quickly create an entire course by inputting par, yardage and direction for each hole in the Scorecard Input box. After entering the information for 18 holes, the holes are displayed graphically in a Custom Course window, where you can re-arrange the course layout and edit individual holes.

Click File on the main menu, then click Course Wizard, to open a Custom Course window and the Scorecard Input box.

Creating A New Hole

1. Click on a hole in the scrolling list in the upper left-hand corner of the window.
2. Click on the arrow in the Par text box to select a par 3, 4 or 5 hole.
3. Input the total yardage of the hole, measured from each tee, in the boxes under Black, Blue, White and Red. Use the following colors as guidelines for setting lengths from each tee:

• Black: Longest tees, generally used by professional golfers
• Blue: Measuring 5-10% shorter than Black Tees, the Blue Tees are usually played by above average recreational golfers
• White: Measuring 15-20% shorter than Black Tees, the White Tees are usually played by intermediate recreational golfers
• Red: Measuring 20-30% shorter than Black Tees, the Red Tees are played by beginning golfers

4. If you created a par 3, the hole is finished. Click on a different hole to continue in the Course Wizard, or complete the following steps for a par 4 or 5.
5. A par 4 requires a description for the First Leg. Click on the arrow in the text box under First Leg, and select Straight, Dogleg left or Dogleg right. If a dogleg is selected, you must also include an Angle setting. Click on the arrow in the text box under Second Leg , and select Random, or any 5 degree increment from 10 - 45 degrees. Note: The Course Wizard places the beginning of the dogleg approximately 225 yards from the Blue tee.
6. A par 5 also requires a description for the Second Leg. If a dogleg is selected, you must also include an Angle setting. Note: The Course Wizard places the beginning of the second dogleg approximately 450 yards from the Blue tee.
7. Click on the next hole in the list, and repeat the process until all 18 holes are completed. Click Undo to erase the totals for the selected hole. Click OK to close the Scorecard Input window and display all completed holes in the Custom Course window.

Opening A Custom Course Window

A Custom Course window allows you to draw each hole, rather than input yardage. Click File on the main menu, then click New Course, to open a blank Custom Course window. If you are currently working in a Custom Course window, you will be prompted to save changes to the current course. After saving the course under a different name, the new name will appear at the top of the window. Only one Custom Course window can be active.

Note: The length of a new hole depends on the number of shots created (Par 3 = 1 shot, Par 4 = 2 shots, Par 5 = 3 shots). The distance of a typical hole depends on the overall style of the course. An "executive" style course features shorter holes geared toward casual golfers, while a tour course is designed to challenge professional golfers. A typical tour course played from the championship (black) tees usually falls within the following ranges: Par 3 (170-225 yds), Par 4 (350-475 yds), Par 5 (475-575 yds). It is important to remember that distance is only one ingredient of a challenging hole. Strategically placed hazards and natural barriers can make a 350-yard Par 4 more difficult than a 595-yard Par 5.

To create a new hole:

1. While in a Custom Course window, click Edit on the main menu, then click New Hole, or right-click anywhere in the Custom Course window, and select New Hole from the pop-up menu.
2. Click once to place the hole on the course.
3. Drag the icon in any direction, and click to set the Tee Shot. If you are creating a Par 3, right-click, and click Finish Hole, or press Enter on the keyboard.
4. Drag the icon again, in any direction, and click to set the Second Shot. If you are creating a Par 4, right-click and click Finish Hole, or press Enter on the keyboard.
5. Finally, drag the icon in any direction, and click to set the Approach Shot. Right-click, and click Finish Hole, or press Enter on the keyboard to create a Par-5.
6. Repeat this process until the course is complete.

Tip: Although the maximum distance per hole is 618 yards, you must leave sufficient yardage for the Second Shot on a Par 4, or the Approach Shot on a Par 5.

Editing A Hole

After creating and placing a hole in the Course window, you can open the Edit Hole window to change terrain features, add shapes and objects, and even alter the lengths and directions of doglegs.

To edit a hole:

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Hole, to pop-up a list of available holes to edit.
2. Select a hole and click OK to open the Edit Hole Window.

or

Right-click in the Course window, and click View Hole; or, simply double-click on a hole in the Course window.

Note: The Edit Hole window may also include other holes adjacent to the hole you are editing. This allows you to align holes close together so you can play on adjacent fairways (hopefully, after a few months of playing Jack Nicklaus 6, you will spend as little time as possible on adjacent fairways). This feature also makes it easier to align cart paths, water hazards, forests etc. However, items created in one Edit Hole window are not automatically duplicated in another Edit Hole window. Think of each hole as a transparent overlay. Shapes and objects drawn on the "bottom" hole must be duplicated on any other overlapping hole. This is an optional process. You can design a playable course without drawing overlapping objects on every adjacent hole.

Selecting A Hole

Click on a Hole in the Course window. A selected Hole is surrounded by a black and white dotted rectangle.

Moving A Hole, Object Or Shape

1. Click and hold the mouse button; and drag the Hole, Object or Shape to a new location.
2. Release the mouse button to drop the item in place.

Note: You must click in the middle of a Shape to drag the entire Shape to a new location. If you click on a circular distance point, you will pull only that distance point to a new location, thus altering the Shape.

Note: Only the outline of a shape can be moved. Any elevation effects applied to the shape will stay in place.

Moving A Hole, Object Or Shape

1. Click and hold the mouse button; and drag the Hole, Object or Shape to a new location.
2. Release the mouse button to drop the item in place.

Note: You must click in the middle of a Shape to drag the entire Shape to a new location. If you click on a circular distance point, you will pull only that distance point to a new location, thus altering the Shape.

Note: Only the outline of a shape can be moved. Any elevation effects applied to the shape will stay in place.

Importing A Hole From Another Course

You can import any hole from another Jack Nicklaus 5 course, and place it in your current course window.

Click Edit, then Import Hole, to retrieve a copy of a hole from another Jack Nicklaus5 course (*.jnc).

or

Right-click in the course window and click on Import Hole.

Note: If your course window already includes 18 holes, one must be deleted before importing a hole.

Note: You must use the import feature to copy holes from one course to another. Directly copying hole files from one folder to another will not be successful.

To Import a Hole

1. Select a course and click on the Open button, or simply double-click on the course file.
2. Move the cursor over a hole (the cursor changes to a black and white dotted rectangle).
3. Click once to select the hole, and click Yes in the pop-up box, to confirm your selection. The hole appears in your course window, and the cursor remains in the Import Hole window.
4. If desired, select another hole for importing.
5. Click on the X in the upper right corner to close the Import Hole window.

Note: The imported holes are stacked in the upper left corner of your course window. Select and drag each hole to an empty area of the window for easier viewing.

Renumbering Holes

1. Click Edit, then click Renumber Holes; or, right-click in the course window, and click Renumber.
2. Move the cross hair to the hole you wish to renumber as 1, and click once.
3. The next hole you click on will be renumbered as 2, and so on.
4. When you are finished renumbering, right-click in the Course window and click Done; or simply press Esc on your keyboard.

Rotating A Hole

1. Select a hole in the Course window.
2. Click Edit on the Menu Bar, then click Rotate; or, press Ctrl + R.
3. Move your mouse to spin the hole in a complete circle.
4. Click once to set the hole in the desired position.
5. To turn off Rotate, click Edit on the Menu Bar, then click Rotate; or, press Esc on the keyboard.

or

Right-click on a hole and select Rotate Hole from the menu. Move your mouse to spin the hole in a complete circle; click once to set the hole at a new angle.

Setting Hole Handicaps

You can rank each hole in order of difficulty, from toughest to easiest. Once the course is handicapped, the information will appear on scorecards; and it will be used to calculate certain match results.

To Set Hole Handicaps

1. Click Edit, then click Set Handicaps; or, right-click in the course window, and click Set Handicaps.
2. Rate each hole on the course, from most difficult (1) to easiest (18).
3. Input each rating on the Handicap Scorecard.
4. Right-click in the course window and click Done, or simply press Esc on your keyboard.

Changing The Sky

While in the Edit Hole window, you can change the Sky setting for your course.

1. Click Edit on the main menu, and click Sky and Horizon; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window and select Pick Sky and Horizon from the pop-up menu.
2. Click on the arrow in the text box labeled Sky, and select Blue, Hazy or Cloudy.
3. Click OK to complete your selection, or click Cancel to revert to the original setting.

Changing The Horizon

The Horizon setting allows you to create a realistic and consistent backdrop for every hole on your course. Once you select the view from the first tee, the directional arrows in the scrolling picture automatically adjust to reflect an accurate view from any other point on the course. Follow the instructions carefully to insure the proper selection of each backdrop.

1. Click Edit on the main menu, and click Sky and Horizon; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window and select Pick Sky and Horizon from the pop-up menu.
2. Click on the arrow located in the box under Horizon.
3. Click on the left and right arrows on the bar beneath the picture to select the golfer's view from the first tee.

For fast scrolling, click, hold and drag the flashing bar beneath the picture.

4. There are seven directional arrow icons spaced evenly across the top of the scrolling picture. Find the arrow that matches the direction of your first tee (check the Course window), and move it to the left-hand edge of the Pick Sky and Horizon window.
5. Click OK to close the Pick Sky and Horizon window.
6. Select another hole from the Course Window, and double-click to open the Edit Hole window. Since you already established the view from the first tee, simply scroll through the picture and find the directional arrow that matches the view from the current tee. Center the arrow in the window.
7. Click OK to close the Pick Sky and Horizon window.
8. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the remaining holes.

Tip: Before selecting Sky and Horizon from the Edit menu, drag the Edit Hole window to a corner of the screen, so you have a clear view of your course window. This will allow you to check the direction of the tee so you can select the proper view from the scrolling Horizon picture.

You can add realistic ambient sounds to your course by selecting items from the Sounds Palette.

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Sounds Palette.
2. Scroll through the list and click on a sound.
3. Click Play to hear the sound.
4. Click Select.
5. Position your mouse pointer at the desired location in the Edit Hole Window (the pointer becomes a sound icon).
6. Click once to set the sound. The black and white dotted circle indicates the effective radius of the sound. The sound can be moved again, by clicking, holding and dragging the icon to a new location.
7. Double-click on a sound icon to verify its settings, and play a sampling of the sound; or, right-click on a sound and click View Sound.

Tip: Activate Sounds on the View menu, so you will be able to see the locations of all sound icons on each hole.

You can add ambient sounds - including birds, frogs, insects and water - to any location on the hole.

To Add Bird Sounds

1. To place a wayward gull in the palm trees along the north side of the fairway, click View on the main menu, then click Sounds Palette, to open the Select Sound window.
2. Scroll through the list of sounds and click on the Gull.
3. Click Play to hear a sound sampling.
4. Click Select to activate the sound icon.
5. Move the sound icon to a spot in the trees along the fairway, and click once to place the sound.
6. Repeat steps 6 and 7 to place additional gulls in the trees.
7. Return to the Select Sound window, and click on Robin #1.
8. Repeat steps 3 through 6.
9. Click Select to activate the sound icon.
10. Move the sound icon to the shrubs located at the bend in the dogleg, on the south side of the fairway. Click once to place Robin #1 in the bushes.

To Add Insect, Frog And Water Sounds

1. Return to the Sound Palette and click on Cricket.
2. Click Select to activate the sound icon.
3. To place the crickets on the course, click once in the Sandy Rough on the east side of the green.
4. Repeat the sound selection process, but this time place frogs on the rocks in front of the water hazard.
5. Finally, select Continuous Brook, and place water sounds in two locations along the water.
6. Check the radius of each water sound icon, to make sure the sounds extend along the full length of the water hazard.

Creating Out of Bounds is just like creating any other Shape. However, since Jack Nicklaus 6 determines Out Of Bounds from the final resting place of the ball, the Out Of Bounds must have depth. Hence, Out Of Bounds is an actual shape, rather than just a boundary line.

To Create Out Of Bounds

1. Set three or more boundary points covering the length of your proposed out of bounds (for more information on shape creation see Creating A New Shape).
2. Right-click on the Shape and click Finish Shape; or simply press Enter on the keyboard. The boundary lines will be drawn in white, on top of any existing shapes.
3. Click and hold on the line, or a boundary point, on the side of the shape away from the fairway.
4. While holding the mouse button, drag the line (or point) away from the fairway, extending the out of bounds area to the end of the Edit Hole window.
5. Release the button to set the new boundaries.

Note: Any shape placed within the white boundary lines, is considered out of bounds. Although the shape will appear in the Rendered View, you will not be able to edit the shape unless you relocate the Out of Bounds.

You can design up to five pin placements for each green.

To Add a New Pin Placement

1. Click Edit, then click New Pin, to pop-up a flag icon; or right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, and select New Pin from the menu.
2. Move the flag to the desired location on the green (the pin will be located at the cross hair on the tip of the yellow flag).
3. Click once to place the new pin on the green.

Relocating An Existing Pin Placement

After placing five pins on the green, the New Pin option will be unavailable. However, you can relocate an existing pin placement at any time.

To relocate an existing Pin:

1. Place the mouse pointer directly over a pin, click and hold to invoke the pin icon.
2. While holding the mouse button, drag the pin to a new location.
3. Release the button to set the new pin placement.

You can open files and activate Course Designer functions by clicking the buttons located beneath the main menu. The following buttons are active while working in a Course window:

The following buttons are active only when a Shape is selected in the Edit Hole window:

Arranging Icons

You can arrange minimized windows that temporarily disappear if you resize the main Course Designer window.

1. Open a course file in the Course Designer.
2. Open several windows (i.e., Edit Hole, Rendered View), then minimize them.
3. Now, resize the main Course Designer window by clicking on the middle button in the upper right hand corner of the window.

To restore the minimized icons to the bottom of the window, click Window on the main Course Designer menu, then click Arrange Icons. The buttons and captions will reappear at the bottom of the window.

Auto Updating The Course View

You can set the Course window to immediately reflect each change in the Edit Hole window.

Click Options on the main menu, then click Auto Update Course View.

Cascade

Click Window, then click Cascade, to display all open Edit Hole windows in layers, one behind the other.

Displaying Multiple Holes

You can open one Course window, and as many holes as you like while editing or creating a course. Your only limitations are the memory constraints of your system. The windows can be minimized or cascaded (layered).

Displaying Objects

While in the Edit Hole window, you can display or hide all objects, such as trees, rocks and ball washers.

Click View on the main menu, then click Objects. Click Objects again to hide them from view.

or

Right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window. Select View on the pop-up menu, then click Objects. Click Objects again to hide them from view.

Displaying Rendered View

While in the Edit Hole window, you can view the hole exactly as it will appear in Golden Bear Challenge. The display reflects the current position and direction of the View Arrow.

Click View on the main menu, then click Rendered View; or, tap the Space Bar to turn on the Rendered View. Click the X in the upper right corner of the window to remove the view.

Adjusting Render Detail

1. Right-click in the Rendered View.
2. Slide the pointer down to Render Detail.
3. Move the pointer to the right and click on the desired level of graphical detail.

Auto Rendering

You can set the Rendered View to immediately re-draw after each change in the Edit Hole window.

Click Options on the main menu, then click Auto Render. Click Auto Render again to turn off the feature.

Tip: Keep this feature turned off to save time during the design process. Turn on Auto Render just before completing your final changes. The Rendered View will reflect all previous changes to the hole.

Tip: There are times when it is to your advantage to turn Auto Render on, and there are times when it is best turned off. For example, when you are altering elevation data, it helps to have a rendered window visible with Auto Render on. If you are doing a large edit on a terrain shape, it may make sense to turn Auto Render off, then manually render when you have finished your work. Experiment with this setting to find what you are most comfortable with.

Changing The Viewing Angle

You can change the height, and correspondingly, the viewing angle of the Rendered View.

1. Right-click in the Rendered View.
2. Click on the desired viewing angle:

Exploring The Rendered View

You can walk through the Rendered View while the hole is still under construction.

1. Click in the Rendered View.
2. Tap the arrow keys to explore the hole in any direction.
3. Press and hold Ctrl while tapping the arrow keys, to cover more ground with each keystroke.

Note: Exploring the Rendered View requires sufficient RAM (system memory) for optimal performance. For best results, use a small window on a PC with 32 MB RAM or higher.

Hearing Ambient Sounds And Viewing Pin Placements

1. Right-click in the Rendered View.
2. Click Ambient Sounds to hear sounds placed on the hole.
3. Click Show Pin Location to view one, or all of the pin placements.

Hiding A Terrain Shape From Rendered View

You can hide a purple Terrain Shape from the Rendered View, until you select its final shape type.

1. While in the Edit Hole window, click Terrain on the main menu.
2. Click Hide In Rendered View, to hide all purple Terrain Shapes from the Rendered View.
3. Click Hide In Rendered View again, to restore purple Terrain Shapes to the Rendered View.

While in the Edit Hole window, you can display Shapes as colored outlines, rather than full color forms. This is especially helpful when Terrain View is turned on.

Click View on the main menu, then click Outlines, to highlight each Shape on the hole. Click Outlines again to restore the default view.

or

Right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window. Select View on the pop-up menu, then click Outlines. Click Outlines again to restore the default view.

Displaying Sounds

While in the Edit Hole window, you can display all Sound icons that represent ambient background sounds.

Click View on the main menu, then click Sounds, to display sound icons on the hole; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, select View on the pop-up menu, and click Sounds. Click Sounds again to remove the icons from view.

Displaying The Terrain Map

You can display Terrain details while working in the Edit Hole window. This is especially useful when you begin adding elevations to your Shapes

Click View on the main menu, then click Terrain, for a topographical view of shapes; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, select View on the pop-up menu, and click Terrain. Click Terrain again to deactivate the view.

Displaying The View Arrow

While in the Edit Hole window, you can display or hide the View Arrow. During editing, the View Arrow can be moved to any location on the hole to change the direction of the Rendered View.

Click View on the main menu, then click View Arrow; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, select View on the pop-up menu, then click View Arrow. Click View Arrow again to remove the arrow from view. /P>

Increasing Terrain Detail

While in the Edit Hole Window, you can increase the level of topographical detail in the Terrain view.

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Terrain to activate Terrain view.
2. To raise the level of topographical detail click View again, and click Increase Detail; or, right-click, then click Increase Terrain Detail. Each time you click Increase Detail, the Terrain map will display increasingly subtle elevation changes in the shapes. (Keyboard: Press and hold Ctrl and Alt while tapping +).

Decreasing Terrain Detail

While in the Edit Hole Window, you can decrease the level of topographical detail in the Terrain view.

1. Click View on the main menu, then click Terrain to activate Terrain view.
2. To decrease the level of topographical detail click View again, and click Decrease Detail; or, right-click, then click Decrease Terrain Detail. Each time you click Decrease Detail, the Terrain map will display less of the subtle elevation changes in the shapes. (Keyboard: Press and hold Ctrl and Alt while tapping -).

Switching To The Course Window

While in the Edit Hole window, you can move quickly to the Course window.

To switch immediately, simply click anywhere in the Course Window. If the Course Window is covered by Edit Hole windows, Click View on the main menu, then click Course; or, right-click anywhere in the Edit Hole window, select View on the pop-up menu, and click Course.

Zoom View

Zooming In To A Hole -- While in the Edit Hole window, you can Zoom In to get a better view of small shapes and objects.

Click View on the main menu, then Zoom In, to move in closer to the hole; or, right-click in the Edit Hole window, then click on Zoom In.

For fast zooming, click the Zoom button on the tool bar, then click on the hole to zoom in.

(Keyboard: Hold down Ctrl and tap +).

Zooming Out From A Hole -- While in the Edit Hole window, you can Zoom Out to restore the entire hole to view.

Click View on the main menu, then click Zoom Out to move back from the hole; or, right-click in the Edit Hole window, then click Zoom Out.

(Keyboard: Hold down Ctrl and tap -).

Note: Press and hold Shift to Zoom Out incrementally; or, press and hold Ctrl to Zoom Out all the way.

Using Scrolling Arrows

Many windows in Golden Bear Challenge include multiple choices that appear when you click on a Scrolling Arrow. Left and right Scrolling Arrows placed beneath a window or box, indicate direction. Click on either arrow to move the screen left or right.

A downward Scrolling Arrow located on the right side of an information box indicates the presence of a selection list. Click on the arrow to pop-up the list. Click on an item in the list to make your selection.

An information box with Scrolling Arrows pointed up and down indicates the presence of numerical values. Click either arrow to move quickly to the desired number.

Hard Drive Space

As with any powerful software tool, make sure you have sufficient empty hard drive space for Windows to operate freely.

Introduction

Jack Nicklaus is one of the great "shotmakers" in the history of golf. Swing, stroke, the pure mechanics of hitting the ball - these elements of his game have certainly served him well over the years. But Jack's greatest skill as a golfer is his mastery of what he calls "game management" - the ability to analyze the demands of any given course or hole. Jack realized quite early in his career that the actual topography of a course - grass, trees, water, sand, the shape and texture of the land itself - ultimately determines shotmaking values. As Jack puts it, "Intense observation improved my strategic approach to shotmaking, which led to better scoring, which encouraged me to develop an ultra-analytical approach to the game." It also led, quite naturally, to a growing interest in golf course design, which, in turn, led to the establishment of Nicklaus Design.

Jack's Design Philosophy

Jack does not have a set philosophy when it comes to design, but there are several constants to his approach.

1. Golf is a game of precision more than power.

As Jack always says, "It's a thinking man's game. That's what makes it fun." His belief is that length in itself does not constitute quality, or enjoyment. Nicklaus Design courses demand that a golfer employ power only as an occasional variation from playing accurately and with finesse. "I design layouts that challenge golfers to play intelligently rather than ones that test their strength," says Jack. "So I try to use the richest possible mix of shot values." Every hole should require the golfer to play one very good shot to make par and one great shot to make birdie. Adds Jack, "There lies the essence of great design, and the fundamental design challenge as far as I am concerned." Oblige the golfer to do two things: THINK and CONTROL THE BALL.

One way Jack does this is by changing the fairway direction in the landing areas. "In other words," he says, "I avoid dead-straight holes whenever possible." Says Jack, "I like to give the golfer options, and design holes that reward the player who can hit the difficult shot. I also try to avoid penal design--that is, design that severely punishes the golfer for wayward shots."

2. Respect the natural lay of the land.

Use land contour, woodland, water, wetlands and rock outcropping in ways that seem entirely consistent with the intention of Mother Nature. "All first-class golf courses and all outstanding golf holes have one thing in common to the golfer's eye," says Jack. "They look absolutely natural, as if the terrain had always been that way, waiting to be discovered for golf. Never try to force an idea onto a piece of land."

3. Avoid "blind" shots.

A blind shot is simply one where you have no exact sense of your shot's destination. Like deceptive contouring, blind shots tend to reward lucky guessing rather than thoughtful, strategic planning.

One of the hallmarks of Nicklaus courses is visibility. "A good strategic course must provide visible hazards so the golfer can weigh his options," says Jack. Therefore, he goes to great lengths to achieve tee to green visibility of target areas and hazards.

Nicklaus' Practical Design Tips

1. ROUTING

Jack likes to challenge the golfer's repertoire of shots by mixing up a good variety of par 3's, 4's and 5's. "The standard is two par-3's per nine, two par-5's per nine, and the rest 4's," he says. "The 3's and 5's should be balanced between long, short and medium lengths. Open with a gentle hole, usually a medium-length par-4. Golfers shouldn't have to tackle tough par-3's or par-5's until they are fully warmed up. Design par-3's that can be reached with iron clubs. "Most of the par-3's I've designed are between 160 to 210 yardsŃ220 is as far as I go unless the hole plays extremely downhill," says Jack. "I like par-4's that are within the reach of most golfers if they hit two good shots. And I prefer par-5's that aren't automatic two shotters for the strong hitter, yet offer the average player a birdie opportunity if he thinks and plays well."

Avoid "runway" holesŃholes that offer a simple, straight, uncomplicated shot to the pin. As Jack says, "The good Lord never drew a straight line. And you'll never find a straight line on a Nicklaus Design course." Of course, holes that dogleg demand "ball movement" (fade or draw) in the shot. Doglegs should vary both left and right from hole to hole to avoid favoring one type of hitter over another.

"Balance is a critical element of superior course design," says Jack. "You have places where you can make heroic shots, but also places where you can make softer shots to offset the more difficult ones."

"Designing holes to play downhill, provides a natural solution to insure total visibility. "We'll route courses to play as many holes downhill as possible. Another trick is to allow for an elevation change on the site between the connection of a green and the next tee."

"A site may have two or three obvious great holes. But the challenge is connecting 18 holes together to allow for balance, variety and natural beauty as the design evolves. Routing a golf course is a puzzle with many pieces including 18 holes, a practice area, clubhouse, etc., that must all work together."

2. TEES

Tee placement is important. Jack prefers five sets of tees. The center line of your hole should start at the back or pro tee. The next tee is 95% of that distance, the next one 90%, and the forward tees in the front are 80% and 70% of the maximum hole distance. Tees and landing areas on Nicklaus-designed courses are usually located on high points that give great visibility, another Nicklaus Design trademark.

3. FAIRWAYS

Jack likes to flare his fairways out from the tee to a relatively wide landing area so that the player is not penalized for a good drive. Landing areas should be "collecting" rather than "repelling" to reward well-placed shots. This is done by making them concave rather than convex, and by adding appropriately placed grassy hollows, bunkers, etc. "You don't need tight driving zones or ultra-narrow approaches on every hole," says Jack. Good golf, even tournament-level golf, doesn't call for long strings of exceptionally tough holes. Jack also likes to make liberal use of "bail-out areas" near heavily protected greens. These areas provide an alternative for players who are unable to carry a tough approach shot over sand or water. From a "bail-out area," players usually have an open pitch shot to the pin.

4. GREENS

Jack likes to design greens that are concave (bowl-like) and feature gentle hollows and slopes rather than severe undulations, so that shots are collected into the green or towards the hole. "It just makes the golf course more enjoyable," he says. "Nobody likes to see a well-placed shot carom off into trouble."

One principle Jack continually reinforces is the "Nothing Blind" rule. On holes where the putting surface is elevated well above the level of the fairway (and therefore out of sight), Jack frequently employs what he calls a "false front"— an unpinable area as the front of the greenŃto provide a reliable visual target.

Jack also dislikes huge, flat, generic greensŃwhat he calls "turf nurseries." Huge greens, he feels, can significantly erode the quality of play. The larger the green, the fewer chips, pitches and sand shots the golfer is called upon to play. "In other words," says Jack, "the bigger the green, the smaller the premium on finesse shots."

Jack likes to incorporate at least four distinct pin placement areas per green to subtly vary the character and difficulty of the hole. "If the golfer is forced to think about placement, the hole will remain fresh and challenging no matter how many times he plays it," he says.

Balance the distribution of hazards around greens to provide proportionate penalties for missing the green front, back, or either side. Always allow the average golfer a "way out" if he plays a good recovery shot.

Finally, avoid excesses. You don't need 18 roller-coaster greens. Tailor the size, shape and contour of greens to each individual hole according to the character and difficulty of the shots that will precede putting. "If a longer hole will require a 2 or 3 iron from the fairway I'll set the green up 'deep' or parallel to the shot line to allow room for the shot. In contrast on a shorter hole, requiring a wedge or 9 iron, the green can run perpendicular or 'narrow' to the shot line and be heavily bunkered in front."

5. BUNKERS

Vary the location, configuration and "purpose" of fairway bunkers by using some for directional purposes (to visually guide golfers toward the green) and others for strategic purposes (to force golfers to play different types of shots).

In general, Jack likes his bunkers visible and strategic. Jack also likes to use bunkers to frame his greens. "In the green area," he says, "every bunker should relate to the flow of the green and its adjacent terrain." He also uses them to contain errant shots—that is, to keep them from caroming into irrecoverable positions. "The worst sight in golf," he says, "is to see a ball bounce over the green and keep rolling and rolling away."

Jack has incorporated many different styles of bunkers over the years. Styles depend on the nature of the site, the purpose of the golf course (private, resort or daily fee) and factors regarding climate and terrain. For example, a site with many trees may lend itself to smaller bunkers. A site with no trees sometimes requires larger bunkers to establish strategy, contrast and framing of the golf course.

Typically bunkers can be more complex and sand can "flash" or flow more in arid or desert climates. Wetter climates call for simpler, flatter bunkers that are easier to maintain, especially after significant rainfall.

Bunker sizes should vary throughout the golf course. Nature does not lend itself to repetition in form or shape. Therefore, bunkers should change in size as they relate to each other. "Nothing is more visually disturbing to me than a complex of bunkers that are all approximately the same size," says Jack.

6. WATER

Jack always tries to avoid water on the first hole because it slows down play and can intimidate some golfers before they warm up. He also likes to put water on the inside of a dog-legged fairway. "Partly, it's just a preference," he says. "But it also keeps the hazard in clear view of the player. Nothing's blind."

As with all strategic factors affecting a golf course, there should be an element of balance concerning placement of water. "We always try to mix it up as much as possible. You don't want three or four holes in a row with water." Water should be balanced concerning placement near the green or fairway as the course evolves. For example, if two par-3's will have water associated with the green, alternate which side of the green the water will be located on to provide balance and variety.

About the Golf Course Designer

Golf course design is undeniably an art form. The classic courses—Pebble Beach in California, Augusta National in Georgia, Muirfield Village in Ohio—are aesthetically pleasing in an "organic" sense. That is, play seems to flow naturally, in harmony with the natural landscape. A truly great course is more than just a "land sculpture." It also presents an athletic challenge of the highest order, one that calls for great skill and a wide variety of golf shots. Golf course designers always strive to enhance the importance of club selection as well as reward the golfer's mastery of physical shotmaking.

Golden Bear Challenge Golf Game & Course Designer allows you to do all of that. It gives you all of the tools you need to sculpt a raw plot of virgin terrain into any kind of golf challenge you can imagine. Course routing, bunker and pin placement, slope placement, hills, water, trees and other objects—virtually every aspect of golf course design is at your fingertips.

Address - The starting position when the golfer aligns the club face to the target.

All Wedge - A hybrid sand wedge/loft wedge with a thinner flange and loft similar to that of a sand wedge.

Back 9 - The second nine holes on an 18-hole course.

Back Swing - After the extension of the club on the take away, the back swing continues with the body coiling and the club moving upward until reaching the point where the downswing begins.

Backspin - A ball spinning in a reverse direction after contact with the club. A short iron (7,8 or 9) or wedge (pitching, loft or sand) generates more backspin, and the ball stops faster after hitting the green, sometimes even rolling backward.

Birdie - A score of one under par for a hole.

Bite - A ball that "grabs" the green and stops dead, without rolling or spinning; usually after a high arcing shot.

Black Tees - Commonly referred to as the Championship, or ‘back' tees, these tees generate the longest yardage for a course. Black tees are normally played by the best professional golfers.

Blue Tees - The second longest tees on the course, the Blue Tees are five to 10% shorter than the Black tees. The Blue tees are usually used by above average recreational golfers.

Bogey - A score of one stroke over par for a hole.

Bunker - A sand filled depression of varying size, usually placed on fairways and around greens.

Chip - A shot played from the fringe or fairway, close to the putting surface. The swing is completed with a very short back swing and controlled power, allowing the golfer to carefully pinpoint where the ball will land or roll. A chip is generally used on a stable, flat surface with a clear path to the green. In Jack Nicklaus 6, a Chip shot uses a smaller swing meter than a Full shot, and the golfer takes a more compact swing.

Club Face - The flat area of a club that comes in contact with the ball.

Dogleg - A hole that requires the golfer to play the tee shot in a direction away from the green, due to trees or other hazards placed between the tee and green. The expression ‘cut the dogleg' refers to a shot that bypasses the hazard by hooking or slicing around it, or hitting over it.

Dormie - Ahead of an opponent by as many strokes as there are holes remaining to be played.

Double-Bogey - A score of two strokes over par for a hole.

Double-Eagle- A score of three strokes under par for a hole.

Downswing - The downward motion of the club as the body uncoils, bringing the legs, arms and club head through the swing to the contact point.

Draw - For a right-handed golfer, a draw describes the action of a ball moving from right to left in the air. This action is caused by a closed club face at the contact point, which sends the ball spinning in a counter-clockwise direction. For a left-handed golfer, left to right movement is considered a draw. A draw is less extreme than a hook.

Driver- The club most often used off the tee on a par-4 or par-5 hole. The driver has the least amount of loft of any club other than the putter.

Eagle - A score of two strokes under par for a hole.

Fade - For a right-handed golfer, a fade describes the action of a ball moving from left to right in the air. This action is caused by an open club face at the contact point, which sends the ball spinning in a clockwise direction. For a left-handed golfer, right to left movement is considered a fade. A fade is less extreme than a slice.

Fairway - The expansive area of mowed grass between the tee and green.

Follow Through - The continued motion of the arms after the shot, carrying the club up, around the left ear and behind the back.

Fringe- The area surrounding a green, where the grass is higher than the putting surface, but lower than the fairway.

Front 9- The first nine holes on an 18-hole course.

Full - In Jack Nicklaus 6, the Full shot is the default shot type for tee and fairway shots over 100 yards for a Pro golfer (this yardage is less for Handicap and Scratch golfers).

Gimme - Golfers award a "gimme" on a putt deemed too short to miss. Rather than attempt a putt, the golfer picks up the ball and records an automatic stroke for the gimme.

Gross Score - The total number of shots taken over 18 holes.

Handicap - 1) A compensating scoring factor based on the difference between a golfer's average score for 18 holes, and the course par.

2) In Jack Nicklaus 6, checking "Use Handicap to Set Swing Meter Speed" is the easiest play setting. The downswing is slow, making it easier to connect at the perfect contact point. Slice and hook penalties for missing the contact point are also minimized. However, a perfect shot will produce the shortest distances of the five game settings.

3) On a golf course, every hole receives a Handicap, or stroke index, placing it in numerical order from most difficult to easiest. Hence, a player with a seven handicap, receives an extra stroke on the seven most difficult holes.

Hole Out - The final shot that goes into the hole. A golfer may "hole out" a short putt, even if other golfers are still waiting to putt.

Hole-in-One - A ball that finds the hole on the first shot.

Hook - For a right-handed golfer, a draw describes the ball moving in a severe right to left bend. This action is caused by a closed club face at the contact point, which sends the ball spinning in a counter-clockwise direction. For a left-handed golfer, left to right movement is considered a hook. See Draw.

Iron - A club with a metal head that comes in various angles of loft . In a set of irons, 1-9, the 1-iron produces the least amount of loft and the longest distance. The 9-iron produces the most loft and the shortest distance. Specialty irons include the pitching wedge, sand wedge, loft wedge and all wedge.

Loft - The trajectory angle of a golf shot; or, the angle of a club face.

Loft Wedge - An angled iron that provides more loft than a pitching wedge. It is useful in situations where the ball must get airborne quickly to clear an obstacle. The increased backspin provided by a loft wedge is also useful when approaching a green that slopes away from the hole.

Mulligan - During casual golf, "taking a mulligan" allows a golfer to re-hit the last shot without counting an extra stroke.

Net Score - The number of shots taken over 18 holes, minus a player's handicap.

Par - A score equal to the par for a hole (3,4 or 5), or for the entire course (i.e., 72).

Pitching Wedge - An angled iron that provides more loft and backspin than a 9-iron.

Plugged - A ball heavily buried in sand is considered "plugged."

Pro - A golfer who plays a course from the Black (longest) tees, without the benefit of a handicap. In Jack Nicklaus 6, the Pro skill level is the most challenging setting. Due to the increased speed of the downswing, it is tougher to hit the perfect contact point on the Swing Meter. Additionally, the slice and hook penalties are greater when you miss the ideal contact point. However, a perfect shot will produce the longest distances of the three game settings.

Putt - In Jack Nicklaus 6, Putt is the default swing on the green. This shot uses the smallest of the three swing meters. Although the game defaults to Chip when the ball is off the green, you can still select Putt as a Shot Type.

Putter - The club used for putting on the green, or from the fringe. Club head design may vary from a straight, thin blade to a heavier, mallet style.

Red Tees - The Red Tees are the shortest tees on the course, 20-30% shorter than the Black (back) Tees. These tees are generally used by beginning golfers.

Regulation - A term used to describe the optimum number of strokes needed to reach the green.

Rough - An area of grass adjacent to the fairway or green. Light rough is slightly longer than the height of fairway grass, while heavy rough is usually taller than the ball.

Sand Wedge - An angled iron with a heavy sole that guides the club through sand.

Slice - For a right-handed golfer, a slice describes the ball moving in a severe left to right bend. This action is caused by an open club face at the contact point, which sends the ball spinning in a clockwise direction. For a left-handed golfer, right to left movement is considered a slice. See Fade.

Sole - The part of a club head that rests on the ground.

Swing Path - The direction in which the club travels through the contact point.

Swing Plane - An imaginary flat surface that mirrors the path of the club during the swing. The angle of the swing plane is directly related to the incline of the club shaft prior to the swing. A swing plane that changes during the swing usually results in a slice, hook or otherwise misdirected shot.

Take Away - The first segment of a golf swing as the club moves away from the ball.

Tempo - The speed of a swing, consisting of the take away, contact point and follow through.

Topographical - Pertaining to a graphical representation of surface features, indicating the height and relative position of each elevation.

Trajectory - The height of a ball at the top of its flight.

White Tees - The White Tees are the second shortest tees on the course, 15-20% shorter than the Black Tees. These tees are usually used by intermediate players.